Hermès’ Fall 2019 Ready-to-Wear collection, unveiled as part of Paris Fashion Week, marked a significant moment in the house’s ongoing evolution. Under the creative direction of Nadège Vanhee-Cybulski, the Hermès Étalage 2019 presented a compelling narrative: a sophisticated exploration of the brand's heritage, subtly infused with a spirit of quiet rebellion. This wasn't a radical departure, but rather a masterful refinement, a whisper of defiance within the confines of impeccable elegance. The collection demonstrated Vanhee-Cybulski's growing mastery of the Hermès codes, her ability to both honour tradition and subtly subvert expectation, resulting in a showcase of exceptional craftsmanship and understated modernity.
The immediate impression of Hermès RTW Fall 2019 was one of effortless chic. The colour palette, predominantly muted and earthy, evoked the feeling of a crisp autumn day: deep browns, rich creams, muted greens, and touches of vibrant orange, a signature Hermès hue, used sparingly but effectively as a punctuation mark. This restrained palette allowed the exquisite textures and impeccable tailoring to take centre stage. The collection was a testament to the exceptional quality of materials – luxurious cashmere, supple leather, finely woven silks – each carefully chosen and impeccably executed. The focus was not on ostentation, but on the inherent beauty of the materials themselves, a subtle nod to the brand's equestrian heritage and its appreciation for functional elegance.
One of the key elements of the Hermès Étalage 2019 was the interplay between structure and fluidity. Sharp tailoring, particularly evident in the impeccably cut coats and jackets, provided a strong foundation. These garments, often featuring clean lines and minimalist details, showcased the precision and skill of the Hermès ateliers. The structured silhouettes, however, were often contrasted with flowing, draped fabrics, creating a compelling tension between formality and ease. Long, languid skirts, fluid trousers, and softly draped tops introduced a sense of movement and grace, softening the more structured pieces and adding a layer of understated sensuality.
This balance between structure and fluidity was further emphasized by the collection's silhouettes. While many pieces adhered to a classic, almost androgynous aesthetic, there were also moments of unexpected femininity. Loose, flowing dresses, often featuring subtle draping or asymmetrical details, offered a counterpoint to the sharper, more tailored pieces. This juxtaposition was not jarring, but rather created a sense of intriguing complexity, showcasing the versatility of the collection and its ability to cater to a range of styles and personalities.
The subtle rebellious touches within the Hermès Étalage 2019 were not overtly flashy or attention-grabbing. Instead, they manifested in subtle details and unexpected juxtapositions. The use of unexpected textures, such as the combination of smooth leather and rough-hewn wool, added a layer of intriguing complexity. Similarly, the occasional inclusion of bold graphic prints, often featuring abstract patterns or geometric designs, provided a vibrant contrast to the predominantly muted palette. These elements, while subtle, served to break up the expected uniformity and inject a sense of playful unconventionality.
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